Sunday, August 28, 2016

The foodie traveller … in Tehran’s Grand Bazaar

“What are they waiting for?” I ask a spice seller, pointing at the long queue zigzagging down the street. “Moslem restaurant. Best tah-chin of Tehran,” he replies proudly.

Tah-chin is an Iranian rice cake covered with pistachios and sour barberries. Photograph: Alamy
In Farsi, tah means bottom, while chinsuggests the idea of layering; tah-chin is the unpretentious, crusty rice layered with chicken that has absorbed every last drop of the warm saffron and melted butter lying at the bottom of the pan. The result is a slice of saffron goodness that is crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside and usually covered in fresh pistachios and sour barberries, which complement the sweetness of the moist, buttery rice.
Hidden in the meandering alleys of the Iranian capital’s Grand Bazaar, behind the screaming street traders selling dried figs, raw pistachios and brightly coloured hijabs, Moslem is on the first floor of a dull-looking building and, although popular with Iranians, it remains largely unknown to the growing number of foreign tourists. No one there speaks English, so I ask my neighbours in the queue if they can help me out.

 Moslem restaurant is in Tehran’s Grand Bazaar.Photograph: Alamy,

A friendly Iranian family guide me through the process – declaring loudly what part of the chicken I would like, while collecting complimentary mint-and-dill yoghurt sauces sprinkled with rose petals.
At the long communal table, after being greeted as a foreigner and offered food samples by my fellow diners, a waiter brings me the biggest portion of mouth-watering tah-chin in Tehran. “Welcome to Iran!”
 The restaurant is on Panzdah-e-Khordad Street, but ask anyone at the bazaar and they’ll point you in the right direction.

10 ideas for adventurous holidays in Iran

with the reciprocal reopenings of the Iranian Embassy in London and the British embassy in Tehran, and the Foreign Office no longer advising against travel, adventurous travelers may decide now’s the time to see the country. Here’s a list of some of the trips available; all are guided group tours. Prices exclude flights but include accommodation, transport, some meals and entry fees.
Architecture and culture

 Nasir al-Mulk Mosque in Shiraz. Photograph: Getty Images
The sacred shrines in the holy city of Qom, ancient monuments at Persepolis and Isfahan, the gardens of Kashan, poets’ tombs in Shiraz, and the tiled Nasir al-Mulk mosque, considered the pinnacle of Iranian-Islamic art, are among the cultural highlights of this 15-day tour.
Trek the Lut desert

 The Dasht-e-Lut desert. Photograph: Bigstock Images
The Dasht-e Lut desert, one of the Earth’s hottest and driest places, is a (hardy) trekker’s dream, with incredible rock formations, sand dunes, salt plains and the Valley of Meteorites – imposing landscapes that enchanted Marco Polo and, 700 years later, Wilfred Thesiger. 
Valley of the Assassins

 The Alborz mountains. Photograph: Michal Knitl/Alamy
A walking tour based around the eponymous 1934 travelogue by the explorer Freya Stark, showcasing the greener side of Iran, traditional villages, the castles of the “assassins” and Alborz mountain hikes. The trip includes a stay with the Shahsevan nomadic tribe, a visit to Tabriz’s blue mosque and Unesco world heritage bazaar.
Backpacking

 The Jame-e Abbasi mosque in Naqhsh-e Jahan Square, Isfahan. Photograph: Soheil Riahi/Alamy
Independent travel isn’t allowed in Iran, Brits must book a group trip, but you can tailor-make one with a minimum of two people with some operators, and on a budget. The guide must accompany travel across country but you can roam freely in each location. The Borders of Adventure website has some sound advice on travel in the country. 

Iran by train, from Turkey

 Amir Chakhmaq mosque in Yazd. Photograph: Paule Seux/Hemis/Corbis
After boarding the train in Ankara, passengers travel to Tehran to explore the archeological sites, before taking a sleeper to Isfahan for its iconic covered bridges and huge Naqhsh-e Jahan Square. The unique desert architecture of Yazd is a short train ride away; the final train trip is to Shiraz, the city of flowers and poetry.
Iraq with Iran

 Persepolis. Photograph: Kelly Cheng Travel Photography/Getty Images/Flickr RF
A 16-day group trip explores the connected Persian and Iraqi cultures. Beginning in Baghdad, it visits Babylon, Kufa and Uruk (ancient Gilgamesh), includes canoeing along the Tigris then tours western Iran, spectacular Persepolis, Shiraz, Isfahan and Tehran. 
Climb Mount Damavand

 Photograph: Henry Wismayer/Alamy
It takes four days to reach the summit of the country’s highest mountain, a 5,671-metre volcano. Base camp is two hours from Tehran, making Damavand one of the most accessible 5,000-metre-plus mountains in the world. If all goes to plan, this seven-day trip includes two days’ recovery in Larijan’s thermal spring and Tehran. 
Horse riding 

 Horseriding with Nomads in Iran
A 10-day riding adventure through the central nomadic lands on dareshori Persian horses takes in mountains and lush forests and paddy fields. Camping is in flat arable grasslands. 
Skiing in Iran 

 Skiiing in Dizin. Photograph: Henry E Iddon/Alamy
Dizin, with lifts to 3,600 metres and Shemshak, at 3,050 metres, are Iran’s most famous resorts, with chalets, hotels and equipment hire. They are both near Tehran and access is straightforward. Another of the larger resorts is Pooladkaf, 85km from Shiraz in the south, peaking at 3,400 metres and enjoying strong sunshine despite high snow totals.
• Iranskitours.ir has deals from £271pp for three nights at Dizin for groups of 3-6, including transfer from Tehran
Festivals 

 The flowers are picked for the festival of Gol-o-Golab (Rose and Rosewater), in Kashan. Photograph: Kaveh Kazemi/Getty Images
Religious and cultural events abound in Iran, reflecting the country’s diverse peoples and historical influences. They range from the Gol-o-Golab (Rose and Rosewater) festival in Kashan in May, to the Chak Chak fire temple festival near Yazd in June, which celebrates the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism. Thetis Travel can organise tailormade tours combined with sightseeing and trips to meet nomadic groups.
By: Zehrah Hasan

Friday, August 26, 2016

Persian Alphabet

The Persian language has been written with a number of different scripts, including Old Persian Cuneiform, Pahlavi,Aramaic, and Avestan. After the Islamic conquest of the Persian Sassanid Empire in 642 CE, Arabic became the language of government, culture and especially religion.

Persian or Farsi, a member of the Iranian branch of Indo-European languages with about 58 million speakers in Iran, Afghanistan and Tajikistan. The form of Persian spoken in Afghanistan is called Dari, while the form spoken in Tajikistan is known as Tajik and is written with the Cyrillic alphabet.

Under Mongolian and Turkish rulers, Persian was adopted as the language of government in Turkey, central Asia and India, where it was used for centuries, and until after 1900 in Kashmir.

Modern Persian, written in a version of the Arabic script (28 letters) except letters marked RED, which are belong to the Persian version (32 letters), and full of words of Arabic origin, appeared during the 9th century.

Notable Features
Words are written from right to left, numbers are written from left to right.
Short vowels are not written, which means the pronunciation and meaning of many words is determined by context.
Most letters change form depending on whether they appear at the beginning, middle or end of a word, or on their own.
Arabic loan words are written with their original spelling, though they are often pronounced quite differently in Persian.

Alphabet:
Numerals: 

The capital of Fars province, city of poets, wine and flowers

Shiraz is the capital of Fars province, one of the most beautiful, historical cities in the world. Farsi (Persian or Parsi) the language of Ancient Fars (Pars), has become the official language of Iran (Persia).
Shiraz with more than 850,000 inhabitants situated in southwestern Iran, in the inland around 200 km from the Persian Gulf, at an elevation of 1,800 metres above sea level.



Perspolis capital of Achaemenid Empire 500 B.C. 
Different people have lived in the Fars province such as the Aryans, the Samis and the Turks, who worked together to form the Iranian culture.

The first Capital of Fars, some 2500 years ago, was Pasargad. It was also the capital of Achaemenid King Cyrus the Great. The ceremonial capital of his successor, Darius I (or Darius the Great), and his son Xerxes, was Persepolis. Today, only the ruins of these two capitals remain. Stakhr was another capital of Fars. It was established by the Sassanids and lasted until Shiraz finally assumed the role of the regional capital.

Shiraz is also the birthplace and resting place of the great Persian poets Hafez and Saadi. There are two remarkable monuments in Shiraz. One is dedicated to Hafez, the master of Persian lyrical poetry. The other one is dedicated to Sa'adi, the author of the famous Golestan, a book of sonnets called the Garden of Roses.

According to Islamic historians, Shiraz came into existence only after the Arab conquest of Iran. The Arab invasion, in fact, contributed to its importance and by the 13th century, Shiraz had grown into one the largest and most popular Islamic cities of the era. Shiraz lies spread out like an immense garden on a green plain at the foot of the Tang Allah-o-Akbar Mountains.

The most interesting buildings in Shiraz are located in the old part of the town. Among them are about a dozen mosques, some with bulb- shaped domes, and others with pear shaped domes and cupolas. These mosques are mostly scattered in among the old houses.



Masjid-e Vakil

The Masjid-e-Vakil (the Regent Mosque) has an impressive portal containing faience panels in floral designs with various shades and colors on each side. The northern iwan (verandah) is decorated with shrubs and flowers, mainly rose bushes. The ceiling in Mihrab Chamber (altar) is covered with small cupolas resting on twisted columns. Vakil Bazaar, which is close by, was built by Karim Khan Zand. Here silversmiths and jewelers still apply their trades of exquisite inlay work. Persian carpets and other traditional Persian handicrafts may also be purchased in the Vakil Bazaar.

About 50 km. Northwest of Shiraz, at the foot of the rahmat Mountains, one encounters the vast platform and remains of Persepolis, the grand ceremonial Capital built by Darius I (Darius the Great) and his successors some 2500 years ago. Archeologists are still combing through the debris and ashes that have covered Persepolis since Alexander the Great destroyed it in 330 BC. Most of the structures have already been revealed.


Pasargad is located about 77 km away from Persepolis. It was built by Cyrus the Great. Among the interesting sites at Pasargad is a stone platform 80 m. long and 18 m. wide. It is believed to have been the foundation of a palace. Close by are the ruins of a building called the Prison of Solomon which was probably a fire temple.

The most important monument in Pasargad is undoubtedly the tomb of Cyrus the Great. It has seven broad steps leading to the sepulcher, which measures 534m. in length by 531m in width and has a low and narrow entrance. 




Tomb of Cyrus The Great in Pasargad

When Alexander the Great looted and destroyed Persepolis, he paid a visit to the tomb of Cyrus. It is recorded that he commanded Aristobulus, one of his warriors, to enter the monument. Inside he found a golden bed, a table set with drinking vessels, a gold coffin, some ornaments studded with precious stones and an inscription of the tomb, which reads: 

"Passer-by, I am Cyrus the Great, I have given the Persians an empire and I have ruled over Asia.
So do not envy me for this tomb."

Wednesday, August 24, 2016

WHAT THE HELL IS PERSIAN FOOD?

Iran has just broken bread with the US for the first time since the Revolution of 1979, so it's about time to learn what the hell that broken Persian bread tastes like. But before you start worrying about etiquette or customs or language (which you can learn via a podcast from that nice woman holding the food), it's way more delicious to just learn about what's on the plate. So here are the 5 dishes that every Persian knows and loves, so you can learn them, and make Persians want to know and love you.

Fesenjoon
Translation: None
Ingredients: Stewed pomegranate puree, ground walnuts, chopped onions, chunks of poultry or balls of ground meat.
What's the deal: Pomegranates were a big deal in Iran long before Westerners realized they were Wonderful. The tart flavor from "the fruit of heaven" combined with savory spices creates one of the most uniquely Persian dishes in the culinary canon -- a seasonal Fall and Winter dish that, when mentioned to an Iranian, will immediately make them think you know much more about their culture than you actually do.


 


Ghormeh Sabzi
Translation: "Stewed greens"
Ingredients: Parsley, spinach, leeks, coriander, kidney beans, dried lemons, dried fenugreek leaves, turmeric-seasoned lamb or beef.
What's the deal: Iran's most widely eaten stew, this lumpy green dish is always going to be on the table of any Persian dinner party, while everyone debates whether Iranian National Team striker Reza Ghoochannejhad is overrated.


Kabob
Translation: Pretty much universal for "meat"
Ingredients: Long strips of minced lamb, chicken, or beef grilled over a fire and served alongside charred tomatoes, rice sprinkled with sumac, a parsley salad, and flatbread.
What's the deal: We shish you not, this is probably the most beloved dish in Iran and ranges from super-cheap street food to stuff that only the Shahs of Sunset could afford. There are a ton of different varieties where the meat is spiced differently (turmeric for kabab koobideh, saffron for kabab barg) and it's usually accompanied by doogh (see below!) or a soda ordered by color rather than brand name, with black meaning Coke, white for Sprite, and orange for Fanta.

Doogh
Translation: Roughly derives from the verb "to milk"
Ingredients: Yogurt, mint, sometimes diced cucumbers.
What's the deal: Iranians mix yogurt into pretty much everything savory -- including spaghetti and soups -- and, to get even more yogurt into a meal, they guzzle glasses of doogh. The sour yogurt drink can sometimes be tough on foreign palates, which might associate the same flavors with curdled milk.

Tadeeg
Translation: "Bottom of the pot"
Ingredients: Burnt rice flavored with saffron.
What's the deal: Iranians love burnt things. Rice is served alongside most meals, but the most coveted rice is tadeeg: the bottom crispy layer that's slightly burnt and has soaked up much of the caramelized saffron. Iran produces 90% of the world's saffron, which is often said to be as expensive as a "pretty girl's kiss" -- and which you can now pay for with your knowledge of Persian food.

Yazd, Bride of Desert


 To me and to many others, nothing is comparable with spending a night under the shallow ceiling of desert's sky whose all shining stars seem reachable. Imagine you witness this beautiful scene in a quiet night of a very old city made out of clay, which can not easily get rid of the warmth the sun has granted during the day

With one third of Iran covered with deserts, having such a delightful night is not a hard work. One of the oldest, largest and most charming desert cities, lies somewhere in the middle of Iran, in the middle of ancient silk road. It is so beautiful that people call it "the pearl of desert". 



The whole city is made out of clay and adobe; it seems that it has risen out of sand. Yazd's architecture is unique. During its long history, Yazd and Yazdies have adapted themselves to the desert surrounding. It is also called, the city of "Badgirs". Badgirs are that chimney like structures raised on the roofs of Yazdies’ houses. Of course they are not chimneys; they are kind of ancient and still working ventilation systems. They gather the even faintest breezes of the desert and channel them into the building below. 

In the interior of the building there is usually a small pool and a central courtyard with old trees which through a narrow corridor finds its way out to a narrow alley. Still you may find some heavy wooden doors with male and female knockers. Walking through these winding narrow alleys in the evening would leave you an unforgettable memory. It seems that time has stopped. 

People are still living in their Old Persian traditions. Some times when passing the houses, you may smell a delicious Yazdi food which would make you feel hungry. Yazdies are also great experts of making confectionary and sweet which have a long background and are famous in the country. Yazd's handicrafts such as rug, small carpets, Kilim, Termeh (a gorgeous hand-made silk tapestry), pottery, earthenware and ceramic are also famous. In order to find them all you need to call on bazaar. 



Domed twisting lane of small shops makes up one of the main symbols of Persian tradition. Bazaar twists and turns and eventually leads to Friday Mosque, one of the finest in Iran. The portal’s facade is decorated from top to bottom in dazzling blue tiles. 

Like her sisters, Yazd is granted with great Islamic architecture and culture, but unlike them Yazd is unique in its Zoroastrian culture. Yazd is the holiest city for Zoroastrians. They hold their rituals on different occasions and every year, Zoroastrians from all over the world come here to see the sacred fire that has been burning without interruption for 1500 years. In the outlying southern suburbs of town are Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, where the bodies of believers were once left to the vultures after death. 

Despite the unmerciful adversities, desert's mysterious silence and unforgettable nights has endless fascination for nature lovers. Moreover, for the ones who adore people, culture, tradition, history and architecture, we cannot think of any other city that preserves so much of the traditional atmosphere better than "Bride of Desert".  
  
Sights:

Alexander's Prison
The Mausoleum of Seyed Roknaddin
The Fire- temple of Chak Chak
The Towers of Silence (Dakhmeh or Qal'eh-ye Khamushan)
Friday Mosque    
Atashkadeh (Fire Temple)

Alexander's Prison 
This 15th century prison is generally believed to have been built by Alexander the Great to detain the Iranian elite. Even the city was known with this same name during the first century after the advent of Islam. The once-dungeon edifice lies in the heart of the old city of Yazd. It has a domed roof which is very interesting. There is also a well and some nooks in the courtyard. 

The Mausoleum of Seyed Roknaddin 
The 33-meter high wind-tower of this mausoleum is indeed the most prominent part. The beautiful portal of the monument is another noteworthy characteristic of the monument. Yet, what is even more substantial is the dome of the edifice. This fine cupola is covered with enameled blue tiles, while brick-work decorates the inside of the cupola. Lattice doors and windows with stained glass patterns impart a pleasing sight to the complex. In the interior you can find epigraphs in Kuffic calligraphy on the plasterworks. There is also a water stream inside the edifice. Formerly the draft of air coming through the wind-tower cooled the interior through the action of the flowing water. This great monument lies in garden and dates back to the 14th century. 


The Fire- temple of Chak Chak 
The name of this fire-temple originates in the water dripping from the stone-cut mountains. This important Zoroastrian fire-temple is located on a hill 52 km to the north-northeast of Yazd. Every year thousands of pilgrims gather in this place for an annual festival, which lasts for ten days from the beginning of the third Iranian month. There is sufficient accommodation for the pilgrims. If willing to visit it, first you ought to get permission from the religious authorities at Atashkade in Yazd. 

The Towers of Silence (Dakhmeh or Qal'eh-ye Khamushan) 
You can reach the place only on a taxi or in your private car. These three impressive buildings lie on hilltops outside in the immediate vicinity of the city.  They do overlook an impressive desert scenery and mountain landscape. There are several types of brickwork and it is impossible to determine when they have been constructed. 
You should not be surprised if come across remains and broken parts of human bone. Formerly the Zoroastrians used these towers in order to expose the corpse of the believers to birds, vultures and crows in particular. For this purpose they laid the dead on the flat stones in the tower. As a matter of fact you should know that fire is a divine element in Zoroastrianism and shouldn't be contaminated by the corpse or any other things. The ritual has been mentioned by Herodotus of Halicarnassus. 

Friday Mosque 
The Friday, or Grand, Mosque of Yazd city is an awesome blend of grandeur and finesse. The monument dates back to the 14th century and is one of the most beautiful tourist attractions in the central Iran. 

This place, called also Friday Mosque, lies in the heart of Yazd. It was once the focus of a complex of buildings and a Sassanid fire temple originally existed in its site.The lofty entrance portal of the mosque is completely unique with its two towering minarets which are the tallest in Iran. 

The portal's facade is decorated from top to bottom in dazzling tile-work, predominantly blue in color. You can also see decorating inscriptions from the holy Quran.  In the spacious, airy, and arcaded courtyard you can find a stairway through which you may climb up and have a beautiful view of the old city and especially of the scenery of the desert. In part of the courtyard lies the sanctuary chamber (shabestan), where decorative brickwork laid in epigrams cover most wall surfaces. 

The sanctuary has a dome and a magnificent prayer-niche (mihrab) which counts among the finest ones existing. It is sheathed with naturalistic floral designs rendered in remarkable faience mosaic. The squat tiled dome is decorated with turquoise and white geometric tiles on an unglazed buff background which feels quite serene and soothing. 

The rectangular winter prayer halls are painted white to contrast with the vibrant multi-colored sanctuary. The early and substantial use of transverse vaulting in these chambers is another considerable attribute of the mosque.   The technique used for lightening this mosque is indeed very noteworthy in its own right, too. 

They have planned it so that the light which is reflected from the plastered walls illuminates the whole place. Close by the mosque, there is a modern library which is a treasury in itself, housing priceless manuscripts of the Holy Qurans. 

Atashkadeh (Fire Temple) 
The sacred flame of the temple, which is considered to be the symbol of the God of Light, has been burning for the past 3000 years, which makes the place one of the most important fire temples for the Zoroastrians, so that the believers from the whole world come to venerate the sacred and eternal fire. 



This fire temple is located on a hill in a small garden and is surrounded by evergreen trees. There is also a large round pool in the courtyard, which offers a vivid reflection of the temple for artistic photography. A couple of paintings, including the Zoroaster's, can be pointed out as another attraction of the place. 

The initiated meet at the fire, but nobody apart form the Grand Priest, who is a descendant of the Magi, has access to the Saint of Saints. There exists a winged figure atop the facade as well. This figure is the visual representation of the supreme god in Zoroastrianism. 


Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Persian Culture


With a long-standing and proud civilization, Persian culture is among the richest in the world. Two and a half millennia of inspiring literature, thousands of poets and writers, magnificent and impressive architecture, live customs dating back to Zoroastrians over 3000 years ago, and other unique characteristics of the nation are rivaled by only a few countries.

Throughout the history, this grand treasure of Persia was gradually transferred to eastern and western nations. Iran's significant contribution into the world civilization in many respects is indispensable. Many ceremonies of the ancient Persians are the basis of western celebrations.



Among the ceremonies still being held are Norouz, Charshanbeh Suri, Sizdah Bedar, Yalda Night and Haft Sin. Sitting around Haft Sin and reciting Hafez, visiting family and friends during Norouz celebration, night of Charshanbeh Suri and jumping over the bonfire in the hope of getting rid of all illnesses and misfortunes, spending Sizdah Bedar, the 13th day of the New Year, in nature, are old interesting traditions coming from the Achaemenid Empire.


Another eminent feature of Persian culture is art. In fact culture and art are two closely interwoven concepts forming the soul of human civilizations. Persian exquisite carpets, subtle soulful classic music, outstanding tile work of unique blue mosques, old influential architectural style and countless brilliant literary works are famous in the world.

Persian or Farsi, is one of the world's oldest languages still in use today, and is known to have one of the most powerful literary traditions and potentials. Persian poetry with masterpieces of Saadi, Hafiz, Rumi and Omar Khayyam is well known around the world.
As all Persians are quick to point out, Farsi is not related to Arabic, it is a member of the Indo-European family of languages.

One more art intertwined with Persian culture, worth mentioning, is the art of cooking. Persian foods, accompanied by herbs and spices are product of the creativity, skill and patience of many generations of cooks. 

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